
Journey to Italy
1954
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A veil of ash covers everything in "Journey to Italy". Not the volcanic ash that sealed Pompeii in an instant of terror and love two thousand years ago, but a finer, invisible dust that has settled on the souls of modern man and woman. It is the ash of boredom, of disenchantment, of a routine that has eroded a marriage until only its formal skeleton remains. Roberto Rossellini, in what is perhaps his most radical and prophetic cinematic gesture, doesn't film a story, but its absence. He captures the void that pulses between two bodies, the sidereal distance that separates two minds that once knew each other, or perhaps only believed they did.
George Sanders and Ingrid Bergman, as Alexander and Katherine Joyce, are not mere characters; they are specters. Ghosts of an affluent English bourgeoisie, catapulted into a teeming, telluric, incomprehensible Southern Italy. He, a cynical and pragmatic businessman, sealed in a sarcasm that is his last trench against emotion. She, a restless woman, steeped in a frustrated, literary romanticism, who seeks in the ancient ruins and landscapes a resonance for her own inner desert. Their automobile, a luxurious Bentley, is a spaceship crossing an alien planet, a hermetic shell that isolates them from a world whose primordial vitality only sharpens their sentimental necrosis.
It is impossible, and intellectually dishonest, to separate "Journey to Italy" from its own genesis. The film is the very incarnation of the crisis—artistic and personal—between Rossellini and Bergman. Their union, born of a scandal that had shaken both Hollywood and the Vatican, was crumbling under the weight of cultural differences and betrayed expectations. That tension is palpable in every frame. The dialogues, often improvised on set, have the bitter taste of real quarrels, of whispered recriminations that become universal sentences. Bergman’s performance is a masterpiece of implosion: her face, once an icon of almost divine integrity, becomes a mask upon which the cracks of a shattering soul are drawn. Sanders, for his part, is the quintessence of British ataraxia that reveals itself for what it is: a form of frozen despair.
Here, Rossellini undertakes an operation that marks a watershed moment in the history of cinema. He abandons the physical rubble of post-war Neorealism to explore the psychological kind. If in Rome, Open City the camera stalked History in the making, here it stalks the absence of a story, the dead time, the insignificant moments that, in their accumulation, reveal the ontological truth of an existence. It is a cinema that does not fear the void; indeed, it makes it his protagonist. In this, Rossellini anticipates by nearly a decade the existential drift of Antonioni, the narrative fragmentation of the Nouvelle Vague. It is no coincidence that the young critics of Cahiers du Cinéma, from Godard to Rivette, elected this film a foundational manifesto for modern cinema. They understood that the true revolution was no longer to show reality, but to film the way consciousness perceives, deforms, and endures it.
The Joyces’ journey is not geographical, but hermeneutic. The Italy they cross is not a country, but a text to be deciphered, an oracle that speaks an archaic and violent language. Each stop is a station in a profane Stations of the Cross. The Naples National Archaeological Museum, with its imposing and impassive classical statues, underscores the fragility and transience of their bodies and their feelings. The sulfur pits of the Phlegraean Fields, with their sulphurous fumes rising from a restless underworld, are the perfect metaphor for their conjugal hell. And then, the visit to the Fontanelle Cemetery, an ossuary where the Neapolitan popular cult carries on a direct and almost affectionate dialogue with death. Katherine wanders among stacks of anonymous skulls, “pauper souls,” and for the first time feels a shiver of transcendence that is not the cold, institutional kind of her Anglican culture, but a carnal, almost pagan spirituality that mixes life and death without a seam.
But it is in Pompeii that the film reaches its apex, a moment of pure cinema that crystallizes into eternity. During the visit to the excavations, a cavity in the earth is brought to light. Archaeologists pour plaster into it, following the famous technique of Giuseppe Fiorelli. Slowly, what re-emerges from the earth is not an object, but a gesture: the form of two bodies, a man and a woman, entwined in the final instant before the volcano’s fury consumed them. A petrified embrace, a love made eternal by catastrophe. Faced with this epiphany, Katherine's defenses crumble. Rossellini’s shot of her face breaking into uncontrollable sobs is one of the most devastating moments in cinema history. In that instant, Katherine does not just see a relic of the past; she sees the ghost of what her love with Alexander could have been and was not. She sees the unbridgeable gap between a love capable of defying death and her own, which has died of starvation and silence. It is a dagger thrust from two thousand years away. It is History judging modernity and condemning it for its sentimental aridity.
And this brings us to the ending, that “miracle” so controversial and often misunderstood. Trapped in the chaos of a religious procession, separated by the crowd, Alexander and Katherine find themselves pushed toward one another. They call out, they search for each other, and when they finally reconnect, they embrace desperately. "I love you," she says, with a simplicity that sounds almost alien after an hour and a half of coded dialogue and hostile glances. Many have seen this ending as a concession, an easy, almost divine resolution. But this is a superficial reading. The miracle is not an external intervention, but an internal implosion. It is not faith that saves them, but life itself, in its most chaotic, irrational, and physical form. The pressing crowd, the forced contact of their bodies, the primal fear of losing one another: all this shatters their intellectual superstructures and forces them into a pure, instinctive gesture. It is the epiphany of James Joyce's Dubliners: a moment of sudden revelation that tears through the veil of daily paralysis. We do not know if their marriage is saved. Rossellini is too intelligent to offer us an answer. What he shows us is not a solution, but a possibility. The final embrace is not the end of the crisis, but perhaps, just perhaps, its true beginning.
"Journey to Italy" is a film that breathes. It breathes the dust of centuries, the heat of the southern sun, the sulfurous stench of the earth, and the frozen breath of a dying love. It is a work that, like the great ruins it depicts, grows more potent and meaningful with the passing of time. It taught cinema how to film thoughts, how to give body to the unsaid, how to find drama not in action, but in waiting. It is the ground zero from which one must start to understand all that came after, an existential whisper that still resonates today with the force of a volcanic eruption.
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