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Sweet Bean

2015

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In a cinematic universe increasingly deafened by digital clamor and overblown narratives, a film like "Sweet Bean" (original title An, literally "sweet red bean paste") appears with the subversive grace of a haiku whispered in the heart of a metropolis. Director Naomi Kawase, a high priestess of a cinema that breathes in unison with nature and its seasons, accomplishes an act that transcends the "food movie," elevating the preparation of a simple sweet into a sacred rite, an ontological metaphor for existence itself. We are faced not so much with a story as with a liturgy of matter, a Proustian epiphany in which the madeleine is not a bourgeois pastry dipped in tea, but a humble adzuki bean paste whose sweetness encapsulates the weight and wisdom of an entire life.

The stage is a tiny dorayaki stand, a kind of filled pancake stall, run by Sentaro, a man whose soul is burdened by the shadow of a past mistake, a sentence that has chained him to an existence of mechanical repetition. His is a Purgatory made of listless gestures and an industrial, anonymous bean paste, devoid of what the Japanese would call kokoro—the heart, the essence. Sentaro is a Sisyphus of dorayaki, condemned to push the same tasteless boulder of routine every day. Into this picture of gray resignation bursts Toku, an elderly woman with deformed hands and a luminous gaze, who offers to work for a paltry wage. Her request is simple: she wants to make the An. It is the meeting of two solitudes, two marginal existences that find an unexpected center of gravity in the sharing of a culinary secret.

Kawase films the process of preparing the An with a devotion that borders on the transcendent. The camera becomes an instrument of observation, almost documentary-like yet deeply lyrical, recalling the Carthusian patience of an Ozu in contemplating domestic spaces. Unlike the master’s formal rigor, however, Kawase uses a mobile, handheld camera that seems to breathe with the characters and the elements. We listen to the murmur of beans being soaked, we watch the light filter through the leaves of the cherry blossoms—the komorebi, a visual obsession for the director—and we become witnesses to a veritable ontology of the adzuki bean. Toku does not cook: she communes with her ingredients. "You have to listen to their story," she tells an incredulous Sentaro, referring to the beans. "They’ve traveled a long way to get here." In this sentence lies the film’s philosophical core, a Shinto animism that merges with Zen asceticism. Cooking becomes an act of radical empathy, a way of honoring the journey and the suffering of every ingredient, and by extension, of every living being.

This celebration of matter is not dissimilar, in its spiritual implications, to what we find in Gabriel Axel's Babette's Feast. There, a sumptuous meal became an act of salvific grace capable of redeeming an entire puritanical community. Here, the redemption is more intimate, almost whispered. Toku’s perfect An is not just delicious; it is a tangible manifestation of her resilience, of her ability to transform pain into sweetness. And the pain, in the film, has a precise and terrible cause: Toku’s hands are the visible testament to her life as a former patient with Hansen’s disease—leprosy.

Kawase approaches this subject with extraordinary delicacy and power, placing the story in its specific and painful socio-historical context. Until 1996, Japan maintained segregationist laws that forced leprosy patients into forced isolation in sanatoriums, tearing them from society and branding them with an indelible stigma. The discrimination that befalls Toku when her past comes to light is not a mere narrative device, but the reflection of a deep and recent wound in the Japanese collective consciousness. The film, however, refrains from any moralistic judgment or head-on denunciation. Its critique is delivered aesthetically. Toku’s hands, an object of revulsion for ignorant customers, are filmed by Kawase with the same reverence she gives the cherry blossom petals. They are hands that have suffered, but they are also the only hands capable of creating such perfection. It is an almost literal application of the concept of wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic that finds beauty in imperfection, transience, and melancholy (mono no aware). The most authentic beauty lies not in immaculate perfection, but in the scars that tell a story.

Here, one might venture an unexpected parallel with the Pixar masterpiece Ratatouille. In both films, a being considered "unclean" and cast out by society—a rat, a former leprosy patient—reveals themselves to be the keeper of a sublime culinary gift, capable of dismantling prejudices and reminding everyone that talent can blossom in the most unlikely of places. But where Brad Bird’s film is a symphony of action and humor, Kawase’s is a chamber piece, a muted hymn to dignity.

The relationship that develops between Toku, Sentaro, and the young student Wakana forms an atypical and moving family unit, a refuge against the world’s incomprehension. Each of them is, in their own way, in a prison: Sentaro in that of his debt, Toku in that of her past, Wakana in that of an emotionally distant family. The preparation and sale of dorayaki become their common language, the pivot around which their broken lives can, for a brief, luminous moment, piece themselves back together. Sentaro’s journey, in particular, is that of a man who learns to look beyond the surface, to "feel" rather than to "produce"—a distant echo of the redemptive path of the bureaucrat Watanabe in Kurosawa’s Ikiru, who finds meaning in his existence only as he faces the threshold of death.

"Sweet Bean" is a film that asks of its viewer the same patience and attention that Toku devotes to her beans. It is a cinema that refuses acceleration, that takes the time to observe a falling leaf, that lingers on the steam rising from a pot. Its narrative structure is simple, almost elementary, but its emotional resonance is immense. Naomi Kawase reminds us that behind every gesture, every flavor, every object, there is a story waiting to be heard. She teaches us that true freedom lies not in escaping one’s past, but in learning to transform it into something sweet, something to be offered to others. The taste of Toku’s An is not just the result of a recipe, but the distillate of an entire life, with all its bitterness and its irrepressible, miraculous sweetness. A quiet masterpiece whose echo lingers long after the viewing, like the aftertaste of an unforgettable flavor.

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